CHICKEN BREEDS

KARI Improved Kienyeji chicks

 NeoTech Kenya Agribusiness sell pure breed chicks fit for vigorous growth early and continuous production. KARI chickens are excellent layers. They are disease resistant and tolerant to a diverse range of conditions. They are used as dual purpose breeds i.e. both for laying and meat production. Their meat has low fat and thus very healthy for consumption. The chicken bred and Developed by Kenya Agricultural and Livestock Research Organization lay white shelled and yellow yolk eggs fetching more returns as Kienyeji eggs. The bird consumes less and produces more. Our day old chicks are vaccinated against Marek disease. 

Kuroiler chicks

Kuroiler chicken originated from India. It is a hybrid bird best for free range or backyard farming.  It matures very fast and able to attain approximately 3.5 Kg for males and 2.5kg for females by the 5^th month of age. They as well begin laying eggs at 4 and half months. They can live and diet on kitchen refuse and agricultural wastes e.g. Sukumawiki. Due to its unique genetic features, the Kuroiler is resistant to diseases. It is most kept in Uganda and very productive. The chicken also lay white shelled and yellow yolk eggs fetching more returns as Kienyeji eggs

Despite disease resistance vaccination is important to be to control risk and be certain of production. Our day old chicks are vaccinated against Marek disease.

Rainbow Rooster chicks

Neotech Kenya Agribusiness is a Kukuchic appointed agent. We sell first generation day old Rainbow rooster chicks which have an origin of India. The birds have excellent laying characteristics and mature very fast as well. Rainbow roosters are bred in Eldoret-kenya by Kukuchic. The birds too are disease tolerant and multicolored. They are dual purpose breeds. Our day old chicks are vaccinated against Marek disease

Kenbro chicks

It has its origin from Kenchic- Kenya. It is very excellent in meat production. It was bred from local birds and hybrid exotic birds.  It attains weight very fast and attractive to the consumer. The carcasses are quality aromatic, tender and take less time to cook.

DAIRY GOAT FARMING BUSINESS IN KENYA

How to examine a dairy goat before you buy

The health of your herd depends upon buying sound dairy goats. Prior to buying a dairy goat it is important to examine them to eliminate doubts about their health, breed and performance.  Get in the goat pen and ask the seller to help hold the goats while you examine them.  It is cost effective to go slowly and being careful.

1. The goat from the top.

Body shape

A dairy goat should have a triangular shape. This ensures that there is enough room for feed in the rumen, even when the doe is pregnant with multiple kids.

Body condition

Feel along her spine and then let your hand slide down the side until you hit the big groove in her side. Feel along the rib bones at the top of the groove. There should be some meat there but it should not be too fatty. If you can't see the groove in her side at all, she is very obese. Don't buy a goat that is way too thin or way too fat.

Hair

The hair should be free of lice and mites.  Little white or brown spots that move indicate infestation. The hair should be shiny and not dull and dry.

Skin

The skin should be free of scales, sores, lumps, and bald patches.

2.  The goat from the front

General attitude

A healthy goat is alert and energetic.

The Legs

The legs should be straight.  They should not bow in or bow out. Reject those with enlarged knee joints, with the skin worn off from walking on the knees.

The Eyes

The goat's eyes should be shiny and clear.  Redness or drainage indicates pinkeye or other eye irritations.

The Mouth

The jaws should match in size and shape so that the goat can chew well.  Reject the "parrot mouth" where the bottom jaw is shorter than the top jaw, "monkey mouth" where the bottom teeth extend out beyond the top front teeth and "bottle jaw" which is a sack-like enlargement below the jaw due to worms or liver flukes.  The lips should be free of sores.

The teeth

The teeth should be whole, spaced so the jaw can shut properly, and appropriate for age. "Broken mouth" indicates the goat is old and cannot chew well.
Teeth that are worn down on a younger goat indicates that they are eating so close to the ground wearing their teeth away, and that they are probably malnourished and full of parasites..  This is very common where grazing is not controlled and there is not enough grass to support the number of goats grazing.

The Nose

The nose should be dry and should not be draining. The goat should breathe quietly and easily.  Noisy breathing and runny nose can mean pneumonia, which is highly contagious.

The Skin

Check for any abscesses on her face, neck or body.

Body condition of the chest area

Reach under the goat's front chest area and feel the breast bone for fat and meat.  There should be meat there, but not a lot of fat.

3.  The goat from the back

The udder

The udder should be full, well attached at the top, with two distinct halves.
Teats should be of the same size and hang straight down or slightly out to the side. Confirm that there are no sores, lumps or deformities in the udder or teats.

Udder size

The size of the udder depends on the age of the goat and milking time. If the goat is a first milker her udder will not be as large as an older goat udder and that is perfectly normal. Udder size reduces on a goat that has recently been milked, and increase greatly as you approach the next milking time.

Rectal area

The back end of the goat should be clean.  If there are liquid feces in the hair, the goat has diarrhea and is sick.

Vagina

The vagina should not discharge except when the goat has recently given birth which might continue for up to three weeks. However the discharge should not smell bad. The goat may also have a clear discharge if it is on heat.

Back Legs

The back legs should be wide apart and straight up and down, not bowed in or out.

4.  The goat from the sides

Check both sides of the goat. She should stand square on all four legs and walk freely, without pain or limping.

Hooves

Pick up her hooves and check for foot rot or scald. Does the hoof smell bad?  Is there a white patch, or sores between the hooves?   Reject goats from a herd that has even one case of foot rot or foot scald because once you get it in your farm, you can't get it out.  Even a goat without symptoms now, carries the disease, if other goats in the herd have had it.
The last thing to do is to feel the lymph nodes and make sure there is no swelling in any of them.  If there is swelling, do not buy the goat, as swelling indicates illness.

Practical steps towards starting dairy goats farming in Kenya

Unlike local goats, dairy goats are bred for milk production and can produce up to 10 times that of the locals. They multiply fast, kidding twice a year often producing twins or triplets. The quality of milk and the prices are higher than a cow’s milk. You require only a half hectare of Elephant (nappier) grass (penisetum puperum) grass to support five dairy goats. Establish a source of fodder by planting or buying fodder locally. Fodder should make the bulk of goat feed. Supplement feeds such as legume species commonly used as pasture or fodder in Kenya like Calliandra, Leucaena, Desmodium, grains and milling by-products, minerals, and molasses provide essential nutrients, such as protein, energy and minerals, to support milk production. If possible grow fodder shrubs around the edges of the plot. The fodder should be able to last a whole year. Other feeds include maize stover, sweet potato vines, banana peels and weeds. Preserve feeds when in surplus in form of hay, dried fodder legumes, leaves and maize stover.

Before buying and moving your goats, consult with the nearest veterinary or livestock office for suitable breed of dairy goats to your area and information on vaccinations against contagious caprine pleuropneumonia (CCPP), pulpy kidney, tetanus and orf.

Construct a good house with raised slatted floor, good ventilation, feed and water troughs.

A sample goat house for 10 to15 does and 1 buck

A good goat house will make it easy to keep goats and should therefore be:

• Rain proof
  
  

  Dairy goat house
• Damp proof
• Well ventilated
• Free from direct wind
• Free from sharp objects that might cut the goat
• Pest and wild animal proof
• Slats on floor for free fall of droppings
• With an area of at least 2 square meters per animal

The benefits of such a goat house are that you will:

• Prevent the animals from much disease.
• Ensure controlled breeding and eliminate many instances of breeding
• Feed the animals very easily and minimize feed wastage
• Save the goat from wasting energy and increase the amount of milk you get
• Keep the goat’s feet dry and clean all the time

There are two main areas of the goat house, the sleeping area and the feeding area.

Sleeping area

• Have walls all around with a door to allow the goats in and out
• Should be roofed to prevent rain
• Should be well ventilated with lots of air allowed in

Feeding area

• This is an open compartment without a roof for the goats to get some sun
• It is fenced right around with a door or gate
• Feed and water trough are placed here
• Feed racks for hanging fodder
• Slatted floor to let manure fall through helps to keep the feet and animals clean and dry
• Mineral blocks are placed where rainfall cannot reach but easily accessible to the goats

The house parts

Floor

The house should be raised 1.5 feet above the ground
A slatted wooden floor is very important with small gaps about half an inch wide (or the width of a slide of a match box between the planks or rafters
Local materials like off-cut planks can be used. Floor racks made of rafters should be put where the goats feed and sleep to stop foot rot when it is wet. This helps to keep the house and dry.

Feed Trough

This is placed in the feeding area built 1 meter (3 feet) above the floor. It can be made with rafters and the floor can be made of off cuts. However the troughs must be easy to clean and be able to hold hay.

Water Trough

This should be placed 1 foot above the floor in the feeding area. Hang a 5 litre can on the door to the sleeping room. The door should have a small window so that goats can have access to water – day and night.

Kid Pen

Toggenburg often give birth to twin kids so don’t make the pen small. Kid pen should be constructed for at least 6 kids and should take half the area of the does.

Hay Barn/Store

The barn is used to store fodder for use during the dry season. Build a roofed store adjacent to the goat house to keep hay away from rained.

Mineral Trough

Should be constructed where the goat sleep. A one foot square box is ideal for the purpose.  Alternatively a plastic container divided into a half longitudinally and nailed to a board, at least 1 foot wide can also be useful. Or just hang the salt so the goat has to reach for it.

Feeding the goats

Ensure you are feeding sufficient forage and supplements for high level of milk production.

Provide roughages (like Napier grass) and supplements. Napier grass should be chopped into approximately 3-cm-long pieces. Energy supplements include molasses, cereals or milling by-products (bran, pollard). Protein supplements include cotton seed cake, Calliandra leaves, Leucaena leaves, sweet potato vines, Desmodium, fishmeal and dairy meal.

A simple supplement can be made at home. For every 6 scoops of whole cereal grains, add half a scoop of fishmeal or any of the following: cotton seed cake, Calliandra leaves, Leucaena leaves, sweet potato vines or Desmodium. Finally add a tablespoonful of mineral mixture. Mix well before feeding.

Increase supplement by ½ kg per day during the last month of pregnancy. When in milk, allow ½ kg of supplement for every 3 litres of milk produced.

In formulating a ration for dairy goats it is important to note the best way to feed goats and that the rations will be presented to the animals in the stalls. There are advantages of stall feeding because:-

• You do not need a large amount of land or grazing pastures
• You can use many farm products, banana leaves, maize, maize thinnings, bean husks, etc.
• It saves time and labor, you do not have to take goats out of the shamba for grazing or spend time looking for them
• There are less death amongst the kids and all goats because they can be easily looked after throughout the day
• It is easier to plan and manage breeding
• It keeps goats from eating crops and damaging the shamba
• It makes collecting manure very easy
• It helps in controlling pests and diseases.

• What is the best way to feed goats?

• Feed only clean, fresh and dry fodder.
• Always have fresh water for goats to drink at any time.
• Clean the feeding trough and water bucket every day.
• Give lots of different feeds such as grasses and legumes, tree leaves and fresh kitchen remains.
• Give chopped mixed feeds to make sure the goats eat everything and do not waste feed.
• Feed goats at least 3 times a day and at the same time every day.
• Put some feed in the feed trough or rack or hang up some feed to be eaten overnight.
• If you use molasses to make feed taste better do not use too much it will make feed sticky.
• Dusty feeds and concentrates should be wetted a little.
• Provide fresh and clean water daily.  There should always be water in the bucket.
• Provide a Mineral Lick (block) always to all goats.
• Do not feed too much leguminous feed such as Desmodium.
• Mix feeds with grass, hay, straw or Napier to balance.
• Only 1/3 of the days feed can be leucaenia, do not feed too much leucaenia, it can poison the goats.

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SAMPLE RATION

Common dairy goat feeds

Pasture & Fodder

• Napier grass - ¼ acre per goat per year
• desmodium – interplanted with Napier grass or pure stand
• Calliandra – Feed green or hay, 20 trees per goat
• Leucaenia spp
• Sweet potato vines
• Sesbania spp
• Pigeon peas plant
• Natural grass

 Crops residues

• Maize stover
• Rice bran
• Sorghum stover
• Bean straws
• Ground nut straws

Concentrates

• Dairy meal
• Jassey sugar
• Cakes e.g. sunflower cake

 Minerals
Maclick super
Unga high phosphorous (powder 20g per day)

Water

At least 8 liters of clean water

A sample ration

Dairy goats rations are formulated from roughages mainly sourced from forages, water, minerals and concentrates. Dairy goats should be fed according to body weight and physiological requirements.  Dry matter amount is critical in feeding dairy goats.  The dry matter requirement is 6% of the body weight.
A goat weighing 30Kg will require 1.8Kg of dry matter (DM). Here is an example of an ideal daily ration for dairy goat

• 5Kg of Napier
• 0.5Kg sweet potato vines
• 0.7 kg of Calliandra
• 0.5kg of Desmodium
• 40g of very high phosphorous
• 8 liters of clean water

Breeding

Identify a good breeding male goat which has no deformities, with two well-developed testicles, strong feet and legs, good body condition and high libido. Libido is observed by the ability of the male to vigorously detect and mate with females on heat. These qualities will ensure successful mating.

One male is needed for every 25 females. This male can be communally owned provided sexually transmitted diseases and other communicable diseases such as brucellosis are controlled.

Mate females two months after kidding. Introduce a male and leave it with the female goats for 2 to 3 weeks. If possible mate all your female goats at the same time to ensure kids are born at the same time and therefore ease management.

Breed females when in good body condition. Select those with a soft udder, two functional teats and strong teeth and legs. Manage reproduction in goats ensuring that first mating should be about 16 months of age because breeding too early can result in weak kids and stunted females.

On average birth occurs 150 days after mating. Watch your goat closely one week before kidding in case of any problems.

Replace breeding animals at 9 years of age or earlier if they fail to become pregnant. Organize for a periodic male exchange program to prevent inbreeding.

Which breed of dairy goats should I keep?

Although there are many breeds of dairy goats in Kenya, only three are the most common and therefore important. Your choice of dairy goat breed will by and large depend on your locality because each breed is suited to certain climatic conditions. The three important breeds are Saanen, Alpines and Toggenburg.

Saanen

White to pale cream in color, they have black spots on the nose and udders and the skin is black spotted. They are usually polled, meaning they are not horned. The ears are normally pointed facing forward.

Mature male weigh about 75 Kg and females 50 – 65 Kg. The breed is used to upgrade local goats.

The highest recorded milk yield in the tropics is 800 Kg in 205 days lactation or 3.9 Kg/day. The current world record 3430 Kg per lactation in temperate regions. Butter Fat (BF) content is around 4%.

Problems associated with Saanen are:

• Sensitive to strong sunlight therefore skin cancer
• Sensitive to high temperatures
• Hermaphrodites are very common

Alpines

These breed of dairy goat adapt in the tropics better than the Saanen. German Alpines are more widespread and the color is variable but can be grouped i.e.

• White front quarter and black hind
• Grayish front and black hind
• Black neck and white hind

Female weigh 60 Kg and male 65 Kg at maturity. Milk yield averages 922.5 Kg per lactation or 4.5 Kg per day and BF content is at 3.6%. The current milk record 2194 kg/lactation.

Toggenburg

This is the least successful exotic breeds in the tropics. Togs have white legs, white stripe from nose to eyes and a characteristic white triangle at the back.

Mature males weigh 65Kg and females 45 Kg.

Milk production is about 3 liters/day and the world record 2613 kg/lactation or 12.5 kg/day. They can produce milk for a long time if not served and are good for upgrading local breeds.

These three breeds are adaptable to a wide range of climate. Alpines and Saanen are hardy and can do well in hot areas. Toggenburg do well in cold areas.

Other than the breeds, the other very important factor is how well you are prepared in terms of management. These goats are high producers and demand a high management level in terms of feeding, husbandry, housing and health.

Rearing the kids

Ensure the newborn kid suckles immediately after birth. The goat’s first milk helps protect the kid from diseases, gets its digestive system working and is especially nutritious. Disinfect the umbilical cord immediately after birth with iodine solution or diluted disinfectant to avoid infection. House both mother and kid in a dry, well-ventilated and secure house.

Allow half to one litre of milk per day for the kid, depending on size. Wean at 3 months.

Introduce kids to roughage (chopped Napier grass, maize stover) by the second week and supplements (0.25 kg per day) by the fourth week.

Controlling internal and external parasites

Deworm all adults before mating, all females 2 weeks before kidding, kids at weaning (3 months of age), and all animals before the start of the rainy season.

Use recommended sprays, pour-ons and powders to control external parasites such as Fleas, ticks, mites and lice.

Vaccinations

Vaccinate goats against the highly contagious disease goat pneumonia (CCPP),  pregnant females against pulpy kidney and tetanus 2 to 3 weeks before kidding and vaccinate kids at 6 months of age. Vaccinate against orf (scabby mouth disease) at 2 months of age. Orf can affect goat handlers therefore wear protective clothing, such as overalls, when handling your goats and wash your hands well with soap and water afterwards.

Marketing

Local markets are readily available for goat’s milk. Obtain market information on demand for goat’s milk or create demand by telling people about benefits of goat’s milk. Try local hospitals, children’s homes and individual households. You can make added-value products such as cheese,  maziwa mala or yoghurt.

You can also sell goats for profits which are currently very marketable and high in demand.

COMMERCIAL EGG FARMING

Editted by Antonio Innocent Mudong,i
Written by Maurice Rangoma

Hits: 9224

Some people have requested for gross margin of raising 500 commercial layers. Here is a breakdown of the expenses and returns that are expected. The prices are not uniform throughout the country therefore you are advised to adjust the prices according to your locality.

Important assumptions

• 500 birds flock
• 12 months production period
• Production of eggs start when birds are 6 months old
• 10% mortality (50 birds)
• 90% laying percentage
• 10% egg losses
• Cost of 1 DOC at Kshs 95 each
• Building already exist

Day old chicks

500 chicks @ 95 each =  Kshs 47,500.00

Brooding costs

Item	Unit	Quantity	Unit price	Total Amount (Kshs)
Cardboards	Pieces	15	450	6,750.00
Paraffin	Litres	60	110	6,600.00
Kerosene lamps	No	10	900	9,000.00
Total				9000

Feeds

Age (weeks)	Feed type	Amount (70kg bags)	Cost (Kshs)	Total (Kshs)
0 – 8	Chick and duck mash	10	3300	33,000.00
8 – 20	Growers mash	50	2400	120,000.00
20 - 75	Layers mash	255	2550	650,000.00
Total				803,250.00

Equipment 

Equipment	Quantity (No)	Unit price	Total Amount (Kshs)
Round feeders	15	500	7500.00
Round drinkers	20	250	5000.00
Egg trays	20	40	800.00
Total			13,300.00

Veterinary charges

Treatment	Frequency	Unit price (Kshs)	Total Amount (Kshs)
Gumboro vaccination	2	500	1000.00
NCD vaccination	3	500	1500.00
Fowl pox	1	500	500.00
Assorted antibiotics			2000.00
Dewormers			1000.00
Total			6000.00

Labour

1 attendant for 18 months @ 4000 each = 72,000.00

Summary of cost

Item	Total
Brooding	9,000.00
Day old chicks	47,500.00
Feeds	803,250.00
Equipment	13,300.00
Veterinary	6000.00
Labour	72,000.00
Total	951,050.00

Returns up to the 75th week + culls.

note. good layers should lay eggs up to at least 2 Years

Item	Unit	Quantity	Unit price	Total
Eggs	Trays	6416	300	1,924,800.00
Culls	No	400	300	120,000.00
Gunny bags	No	315	30	9,450.00
Total				2,054,250

Gross margin

Kshs (2,054,250– 951,050) =  Kshs 1,103,200
You can increase the profit margin by cutiing costs and increasing the laying percentage

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POULTRY FARMING (hatchery)

What you need to know when planning for a chicken hatcheries business

As opposed to natural methods where the hen sits on the eggs, commercial hatcheries customarily rely on artificial incubators.  Chicken hatchery business is more than the ordinary raising of chicken. It basically entails the regular production and supply of day old chicks by artificial incubation.

There can be variations in the nature of the hatcheries such that it may be part of a breeding farm, an arrangement where day old chicks and parent stocks are produced or where the breeding stock is not maintained but eggs are purchased to produce day old chicks. 

A vibrant parent stork that supplies the eggs for hatching has to be maintained if eggs are not going to be purchased. Young chicks that are not going to be sold must be considered as well as adult chicken that go broody. Other poultry species such as ducks, turkeys, guinea fowl, quails and pigeons can also be integrated into the hatchery.

Planning the hatchery

Licence

You will need a licence to operate a hatchery. This licence can be obtained from the Veterinary Department. It is issued after the department is satisfied that the premises meet all phytosanitary requirements and do not expose humans and the environment to pollution and health hazards. Although this project does not fall within the control of the National Environmental Management Authority (NEMA) it will be important to have a good environmental management plan to ensure that the waste produced from the hatcheries does not affect the local population.

Scale of operation

The turnover rate should be the basic concern because it determines the finances required to set up and run the business. The size of the perceived poultry market, whether local, external or a combination is a good indicator on the size of the hatchery to be set up. For the local market you need to investigate the following in order to determine the demand and therefore the appropriate size of the hatchery:

1. The local chicken or poultry population
2. The number of chicken or poultry farms within the locality
3. Chicken or poultry varieties
4. Number of chicks produced per month
5. Required number of eggs to produce the chicks
6. The number of batches and number of eggs hatching each batch
7. The size of incubators and hatching house area

Site selection

You need to look for the following when selecting a site for the hatchery:

1. A ground that is well drained and preferably a high ground
2. Good infrastructure such as roads for transportation, electricity and water system
3. Peaceful and clean environment with plenty of fresh air. Polluting environments such as heavy traffic, slaughter houses, poultry keeping farms, mining areas, chemical plants can affect the embryo. Check that the prevailing winds do not carry poultry debris from other farms into the hatchery.
4. The building should be located at least 150m away from the nearest poultry house and should have its own entrance and exit separate from the parent stock house.

Housing

The design and construction must take into account the sanitation, control of temperature, humidity and diseases. Use appropriate building materials to prevent leaks and draughts. The floor should be flat, smooth and easy to clean and the height from floor to ceiling should be about 3.4 to 3.8m. Because of the necessity for regular washing and disinfection the inside walls should be covered by hard non-absorbent finish and tiles are preferred.

In order to minimize the risk of disease transmission between eggs and chicks, arrange the personnel and egg flow such that there is minimum or no back tracking by staff. Separate the personnel who work in the hatchery from those working in the breeder farm.

The building should provide rooms for

1. Holding eggs prior to setting
2. Grading and traying of eggs
3. Incubation and hatching machines
4. Chick sexing
5. Grading and holding prior to sales
6. Additional rooms for cleaning of equipment, fumigation and washing of staff

A simple hatchery layout

Required equipment

1. Incubators
2. Egg setting equipment
3. Egg transfer equipment
4. Chick handling and washing equipment
5. Climate control equipment

Heating

Where the heating system uses electricity it is important to install a standby generator in cases of power failure. Power failure causes failure of temperature and humidity system.

Breeding

Place a cock for every 10 hens in a separate building. Provide laying nests and other equipment necessary for production.

Health

Poultry operations pose high risks of disease transmissions which at times can become epidemics of high proportions. Health and sanitary precautions must therefore be strictly adhered to. You must design and implement an effective and comprehensive health and safety programs that comply with international standards. The following sanitary procedures are recommended:

1. Ensure that eggs for hatching are free from diseases if they have to be purchased.
2. Fumigate all purchased eggs immediately
3. Wash and disinfect all setting and hatching trays, the incubator and hatcher rooms, and all rooms in the hatchery after every hatch.
4. Dispose hatchery debris by burning in specially constructed facilities or burying deeply.
5. Attendants and visitors must be clean and disinfected before proceeding into the hatchery.

Records

Other than for your own business, it is a requirement that the following records are properly kept.

1. Name and address of flock owner of all eggs received
2. Number of eggs and date received
3. The number of all hatching eggs and date received
4. The number of all baby chicks sold and flock origin,
5. Date, name and address of purchaser
6. Flock inspection and test results

Hatchery operations

Incubation

1. Store eggs in plastic egg trays at room temperature and 75% relative humidity.
2. Do not store eggs for long before setting because they lose moisture through evaporation and therefore hatchability.
3. Line egg cases with plastic to prevent evaporation if eggs must stay long before setting.
4. Attach a record card to indicate the source of eggs, type and date of setting
5. If the eggs are dirty they should be cleaned by washing in hot water with disinfectants such as Dettol. However washing increases the chances of infection and should be discouraged. Alternatively they should be fumigated prior to setting using formaldehyde.
6. Warm the eggs to room temperature 6 hours before setting.
7. Sort and grade the eggs before placing them in the incubator. Remove all broken, oversized, undersized or shapeless eggs.
8. Place the eggs in clean trays and warm them to 37.5^oC
9. Warm the incubator to 36.5 – 37.5^oC then carefully arrange the eggs in hatching trays. Set the eggs at an angle of 45^o with the narrow end pointing down
10. Maintain humidity at 70 – 80%
11. Read the thermometer every 6 – 8 hours and adjust the heat accordingly whenever the thermometer reading falls below 36.5^oC or rises above 37.5^oC.
12. Turn the eggs every 6 – 8 hours and continue doing this up to day 18.
13. Check the temperature every time you turn the eggs and adjust the heat accordingly.
14. Candle the eggs on day 7 and 14 to ensure you don’t have infertile or those eggs with dead embryos.
15. Remove and dispose off all broken, infertile and spoilt eggs
16. On day 19 transfer eggs from the incubator to the hatcher.
17. Increase moisture to soften the eggs and help the chicks emerge.
18. Chicks start to come out on day 20. Do not keep for long chicks that hatch early. Remove them from the hatcher and process them so that they can be delivered within 12 hours.
19. Most of the chicks will have hatched on day 21.
20. 20.  Chicks dry within 30 – 45 minutes after they come out from their shells. Remove them immediately from the incubator after they are dry to prevent them from overheating.
21. The day old chicks are now ready for sale or brooding
22. Remove the egg shells, dead chicks and spoilt eggs from the hatching trays then clean and disinfect the incubator for the next batch of eggs.

Handling chicks

Packing

1. Assemble the chick boxes before pulling the chicks from the hatchers.
2. Pull out the trays one at a time
3. Remove and count the healthy chicks as they are placed into the chick boxes.
4. Leave the poor quality chicks in the trays and dispose them off with empty shells, unhatched eggs and hatchery debris.
5. Allow the chicks to stand in the chick boxes for 4 – 5 hours to let them harden.
6. Keep a record of total saleable chicks and hatches each day

Sexing

1. Separate the cockerels and pullets at hatching time.
2. Sexing can be done in three ways i.e. color, feather or vent sexing.

Vaccination

1. Vaccinate against Marek’s Disease and New Castle Disease on day one.

Debeaking

1. If the chicks are meant for broilers debeak them on day one.
2. Debeaking can be done by cold method through a cold knife or scissors by the hot method through a debeaking machine with a hot blade.

Transportation

1. Transfer chicks ready for delivery into chick holding rooms.
2. Record the breed, fertility, hatchability, number of saleable chicks, percent hatch and culls before the chicks leave the hatchery.
3. Give customers adequate information about breed, expected performance and vaccination record of chicks they purchase in a small written guide 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

SILAGE PREPARATION

Year after year many cows in the tropical and subtropical areas of the world die of starvation.
Whenever the dry season lasts just a little longer than usual thousands of livestock are lost due to starvation more so lack of feed. Production decreases resulting to great loses in agricultural returns.
Over centuries farmers in the colder regions of the world have learned to cope with winters when not a single blade of grass will grow for months on end. Their continued success can be attributed to long term storage and conservation of forages and meticulous planning.

And curiously enough, it is only in the world’s really hot regions that the quality and feeding value of forages can actually be improved through conservation! Meaning that you can feed more cows, who will give more milk, with the same amount of silage compared to the original forage you started out with!
You think this is impossible?

BELOW IS A SIMPLE METHOD OF SILAGE PREPARATION WE HAVE IMPLEMENTED FOR SOME FARMERS 

NOTE
When not done properly silage will completely spoil or even become harmful to your animals, so my advise is consult where you are not sure and or see a more experienced farmer who has succeeded in the "Art of silage making" and follow his advise!

OUR SERVICES

 1.We offer extensive consultancy services to farmers. This is done to interested individual farmers and farmer groups.
2. We offer Agricultural extension services eg;

• site analysis
• soil sampling 
• farmer project analysis and advise
• crop inspection and commendation
• animal inspection and commendation
• Agricultural product development

3.  Agricultural project development.
4. Agricultural project appraisal
5. Agricultural project implementation
6. Agricultural project management
7. Agricultural project evaluation
8. Farm budgeting
9. Farm designing
10. Agricultural product marketing
11. Farm staff recruitment.

COMMERCIAL HAY PRODUCTION

                        Making money with Boma Rhodes hay

''The persistent shortage of feeding materials for livestock especially during the dry season opens a sound opportunity for making money selling Boma Rhodes grass hay. The high productivity and quality per unit area of boma rhodes make it the grass of choice for both the large and small-scale farmers.

In short Rhodes grass is the most important pasture grass in Kenya due to its ease in establishment and management. In Kenya there are major suppliers of rhodes grass hay which they also export to other countries.


 Other than storing the grass for use during the dry season, you can make hay for sale irrespective of whether you have animals or not. The size of the farm may not be important although the bigger the farm the higher the profit arising from economies of scale. One can start with half acre if the land is too limiting. There are plenty of idle lands lying around whose absentee farmers do not know what to do with. Some of the reasons arise out of the demands by other crop productions which always require that they are around most of the time to monitor their progress and take action where appropriate.

Boma rhodes production and hay making for sales can easily be practiced by such farmers because the  methods of pasture establishment and propagation demand less capital. First you need to prepare a good seedbed by ploughing and harrowing twice for virgin lands. On a previously cropped land you will need to plough and harrow just once before the beginning of the long rains.

Sowing should be done very early, usually in April, so that weeds do not overtake the germinating seeds. Others prefer to sow during the short rains to take care of weeds. Drilling is preferred because it ensures that the seeds are buried and distributed uniformly and others are not left on the surface to dry as in broadcasting.  The seed is first pelleted for them to flow readily during drilling, which is done at a rate of 0.5-1 kg/ha in rows 30 – 40 cm apart. The seed is best sown on the surface not deeper than 2 cm followed by rolling. For broadcasting, the seed is best mixed with sawdust or sand. Seeds germinate in 1-7 days and seedlings develop rapidly.

Apply fertilizer or manure during planting to promote strong root development. Recommended fertilizer are SSP at 2-4 bags/ha or SSP or DAP at 1-2 bags/ha. If manure, broadcast at 10 ton/ha and harrow before planting.
Returns depend on how effectively you manage the pasture stand. The most important is weed control. Of course grazing should not be allowed as this will deplete the crop. While the numerous fungi and nematodes have been isolated from the grass, they rarely have any economic impact. Control the weeds during the first year by hand weeding or by use of herbicides.  In subsequent years, keep fields clean by slashing, hand pulling or mowing of weeds.

During the establishment year soil nitrogen is adequate for grass productivity. Additional nutrients in the form of inorganic fertilizer or farmyard manure are required in subsequent seasons. Topdress grass with 5-7 bags CAN or ASN per ha per year in 3 splits during the rain season or 5-10 tons of farmyard manure. Topdress with 2 bags SSP or 1 bag of TSP per ha per year in addition to the nitrogen fertilizers after the establishment year in areas with phosphate deficiencies.  Nitrogen fertilizer can be applied one or two months before the dry season in order to increase yields during the dry season.

DM yields generally range from about (2-) 10-25 t/ha, depending on soil fertility , environmental conditions, and cutting frequency.  Yields in the second year may be double those of the establishment year, but this also depends on management and environmental conditions.  While yields of 35-60 t/ha DM are reported, these are not the norm.

 

Cost of establishment

Item	Cost (Ksh)
Land preparation
Ploughing	7,500
Harrowing	4,500
Sowing	4,500
Seeds @ Kshs. 700 per Kg	1,000
Fertilizer application
2 bags DAP @ Kshs. 3,000 per bag	6,000
5 bags CAN @ Kshs 2,700 per bag	13,500
Weeding
Herbicides	3,000
Labor	3,000
Harvesting labor charges	3,000
Total cost	46,000
Yields
500 bales per hectare per harvest
Harvest 3 times a year 1,500 bales
Sales @ Kshs 200 per bale	300,000
Net income	254,500

As you can see, profit in the first year is Kshs. 254,500. This profit can significantly increase the following year because there will be no cost on crop establishment and yields may double. Maintenance and harvesting will be the recurring cost in the second and third year. After the third year yields diminish and it is better to remove the crop''

This remains untapped pottential in us farmers. If  you wish to engage in hay farming feel free to contact us. if you have a question; feel free to post it and we shall be at your service.
see some of the key COMMERCIAL HAY PROJECTS WE HAVE IMPLEMENTED.
NOTE; YOU CAN CONTACT US TO GET THE WHOLE DOCUMENT AS PER YOUR FARM SIZE

Category: Livestock Feeds
Published on Tuesday, 23 August 2011 11:43
Written by xtalia farms
Hits: 23194
Revised by. Antonio I. M